A home inspection is your last line of defense before committing hundreds of thousands of dollars to a property. A thorough inspection takes 2-4 hours and covers over 1,600 components of the home. Understanding what inspectors look for helps you ask better questions, catch potential issues, and negotiate effectively.
Not all inspectors are created equal. Look for inspectors who are members of the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI). These organizations require continuing education, adherence to standards of practice, and carry errors and omissions insurance.
Ask for sample reports before hiring. A good report includes photos of every issue, clear descriptions of the problem, and recommendations for repair. Avoid inspectors who provide only a checklist with pass/fail marks — you want detailed narrative explanations. Expect to pay $300-$600 for a standard inspection, with additional costs for specialized tests.
Always attend the inspection in person. Walking through the home with the inspector gives you firsthand knowledge of the property's condition that a written report cannot convey. You can ask questions in real time, learn about maintenance requirements, and see issues with your own eyes.
The foundation is the most critical — and most expensive — component of a home. Inspectors look for cracks in the foundation walls and slab, signs of settling or shifting, water intrusion, and proper drainage away from the foundation. Horizontal cracks in block foundations and stair-step cracks in brick are particularly concerning, as they may indicate structural movement.
Minor hairline cracks in concrete are normal as a house settles. Cracks wider than 1/4 inch, cracks that are offset (one side higher than the other), or cracks accompanied by bowing walls are red flags that require a structural engineer's evaluation. Foundation repairs can cost $5,000-$50,000 or more, making this the single most important area to evaluate carefully.
Inside the home, the inspector checks for sloping floors (using a level), cracks in drywall above doors and windows (a sign of settling), and doors that do not close properly. While some settling is normal in older homes, active structural movement — indicated by fresh cracks, sticking doors, and noticeably uneven floors — warrants further investigation.
The roof is the second most expensive system to replace, typically $8,000-$25,000 depending on size and materials. Inspectors assess the roof covering condition, look for missing or damaged shingles, check flashing around chimneys and vents, examine gutters and downspouts, and estimate remaining useful life.
An asphalt shingle roof lasts 20-30 years, metal roofs 40-70 years, and tile or slate 50-100 years. If the roof has 5 or fewer years of remaining life, factor $10,000-$20,000 into your offer negotiations. Signs of an aging roof include curling shingles, granule loss (check gutters for granules), and visible daylight from inside the attic.
The inspector examines siding for damage, rot, gaps, and proper installation. Wood siding requires regular painting and is susceptible to moisture damage and insect intrusion. Vinyl siding is low-maintenance but can hide problems underneath. Stucco should be checked for cracks that could allow moisture intrusion, which can cause significant hidden damage.
Electrical issues are both a safety hazard and potentially expensive to repair. The inspector checks the main electrical panel for proper labeling, adequate amperage (200 amps is standard for modern homes), signs of overheating, and safe wiring practices. Older homes with 60-100 amp panels may need a panel upgrade ($1,500-$3,000) to support modern electrical loads.
Throughout the home, inspectors test outlets for proper grounding and polarity, check for GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and outdoor areas, and look for visible wiring issues. Homes built before 1965 may have aluminum wiring or knob-and-tube wiring, both of which require special attention and potentially expensive remediation.
The plumbing inspection covers supply lines, drain lines, water heater, and fixtures. Inspectors check water pressure, look for leaks at connections and under sinks, test all faucets and toilets, and examine the water heater for age and condition. Water heaters last 8-12 years and cost $1,200-$3,000 to replace.
Older homes may have galvanized steel pipes (prone to corrosion and reduced flow), cast iron drain lines (which deteriorate from the inside), or polybutylene supply lines (known for unexpected failures). A sewer scope inspection ($250-$400) is strongly recommended for homes over 20 years old — it uses a camera to inspect the main sewer line for tree root intrusion, cracks, and blockages. Sewer line replacement costs $5,000-$15,000.
Heating and cooling systems are the third most expensive to replace after the roof and foundation. The inspector checks the furnace and air conditioning unit for age, condition, and proper operation. A furnace lasts 15-25 years and costs $3,000-$7,000 to replace. An air conditioning unit lasts 12-20 years and costs $3,500-$7,500 to replace.
The inspector also evaluates ductwork for leaks, insulation, and proper sizing. Leaky ducts can reduce HVAC efficiency by 20-30%, adding hundreds of dollars per year to energy bills. The air filter should be checked, and the inspector will run the system through a full heating and cooling cycle to verify proper operation.
Beyond the standard home inspection, several specialized tests can reveal hidden problems. Radon testing ($150) detects this invisible, cancer-causing gas that enters homes through the foundation — radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Mold testing ($300-$600) identifies hidden mold growth, especially in basements, attics, and bathrooms. Termite and pest inspection ($75-$150) checks for wood-destroying insects and is often required by lenders.
For homes with wells or septic systems, a water quality test ($100-$300) and septic inspection ($300-$500) are essential. Lead paint testing ($300-$500) is recommended for any home built before 1978. An energy audit ($200-$400) can identify insulation deficiencies and air leaks that affect comfort and utility costs.
Not every inspection issue is a deal-breaker. Normal maintenance items, minor cosmetic issues, and even moderate repairs are all negotiable. But some findings should give you serious pause: active structural movement in the foundation, evidence of ongoing water intrusion in the basement, a roof that needs immediate replacement combined with other major issues, extensive mold throughout the home, or major electrical safety hazards.
The key question is whether the cost of repairs exceeds what you can negotiate off the purchase price and still stay within your budget. A $10,000 roof repair is manageable. A $10,000 roof plus a $15,000 foundation repair plus a $5,000 electrical panel upgrade starts to change the economics of the entire purchase. Your inspector's job is to give you the information — your job is to decide what it means for your offer.